After climbing over such little ships as the Rebecca Carnano, the G. Everything about the deck furniture seemed so small; due to the bigness of the ship, that it impressed one with the size of the craft. A man shrank into such insignificant proportions aboard one of these craft that it fairly awed him with respect for such of his fellowmen as dared attempt the mastery of such a hugh fabric of wood and iron. The topsail halliard blocks appeared small in the maze of spars, ropes and other blocks, but when you came to lift one you discovered what immense things they actually were.
A little south of Rio we sighted a sail astern, early one morning. Our bark carried a crew of eight men and the stranger probably stowed about thirty in her forecastle.
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Those immense blocks, that were all one man could lift, looked to us no bigger than beads and the heavy ropes rove through them, like threads. But a handsomer picture never was presented to the gaze of man than such a ship logging her twelve knots under full sail.
Deep-waisted bulwarks, around the naked-looking decks of these ships, gave an appearance of simplicity, in striking contrast to one of the two thousand ton, Bath-built ships of or thereabouts, with its many deck encumbrances. These later ships were built with a high quarter deck aft and a raised forecastle-head forward. They had fore, main and after hatchways for loading and unloading cargo. Some ships fitted with a steam donkey-engine and boiler, had a room in the deck-house, called the donkey room.
The after house, raised some three feet above the quarter deck, was fitted with skylights and companionways and sometimes a couple of double-ended whale boats would be stowed on skids, one on either side, just forward of the mizzen rigging.
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A long, steep ladder led down from the forward end of this poop to the main deck and a short ladder led aft to the quarter deck, which ended near the after end of this after house with a ladder at each side in the alleyways. The little, flush-decked coaster had a single barrel lever pump abaft her mainmast, but this big, soft wood ship had a double-chambered, diaphragm flywheel pump mounted on the extended main fiferail.
To handle warps, there was a small capstan, away forward, on the forecastle head, and a heavier, double-acting capstan was near the after end, for hoisting and stowing the anchors, and for heaving the windlass. There was another capstan, aft, between the mainmast and after-hatch and also winch heads at the fore and main bitts for emergency cases in getting out cargo.
These were also used for mastheading the heavy maintopsail yard when reefing topsails down off Cape Horn where man-power becomes all but exhausted in the killing weather of those latitudes. These big, Maine-built ships were beauties and represented the last word in ship construction. Many of them, nowadays, are referred to as clippers, but they are as different from the true clipper, as a brewery horse is from a trotting mare—well kept, but not speedy.
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They were round-sided ships with tumble-home top sides, beautifully adorned with carvings along the upper works, their sterns a blaze of colorful carvings and paintings, with windows and balconies, all harmoniously proportioned. The other end of the ship was also adorned with curved rails and an elaborately carved image for a figure-head that was generally symbolic of her name.
There is a lot of work connected with the making of one of these models and anyone undertaking to build one should first of all be very careful to get a design to work from that is correct. It is most exasperating to get well along with the construction of your model and then find that a grievous error has been made in the plans.
It is far better to go carefully over the plans before you begin work. Only recently, a friend of mine undertook to build a three-decked French line-of-battleship, from a set of plans printed in an old book on shipbuilding. He had all these plans enlarged by the photostat process and naturally supposed they were accurate.
He went ahead and did a lot of work; bought a whole log of boxwood and had it sawed up to the proper thickness for frames and keel and then, when he got stuck, called upon me for help. I found that the three plans did not agree; that they were unfair; that the heights in one plan did not coincide with the heights in the other.
The result was that he had to scrap most of the work done, redraw and fair-up the set of lines and then begin over again. Boxwood is preferable in several ways to use for the built-up model. It is close grained and holds fastenings well; does not split easily; lasts almost forever and will take on a beautifully polished finish with varnish to show the work. If the model is to be painted, other cheaper woods can be used. Maple, apple and black-walnut are good woods for the frames, and for the straight members, such as the keel.
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R.E.A.D. [BOOK] The Ship Model Builder's Assistant [R.A.R]
Upload Sign In Join. Save For Later. Create a List. Summary Indispensable for the serious model builder, this book offers hobbyists a true understanding of the masting, rigging, and most important fittings of American clipper ships and packet ships of the Great Age of Sail.
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Here is practical advice and guidance to building ship kits in the to range of scales in either plastic or resin. Full of ideas using step by step photographs for building two models. This book is without a doubt, the ultimate how-to-build sory model book. Every single step of the building process is thouroughly explained in Dynamite Payson's easy-going, hands-on style. Build three authentic working dory models with guidance from lobsterman, boatbuilder, teacher, and modelmaker Dynamite Payson. This book is a new step by step manual that tackles what, for many, is regarded as the ultimate expression of the ship model maker's art, the Navy Board Model.
The author deals with the Construction of a miniature scale model of the Royal George of Over hundred photographs. Historical notes on whaling and whaleboats and a modelmakers step-by-step guide to building a model whaleboat. A step-by-step guide to the intricacies of square rig. Complete rigging details shown in drawings of the eighteenth century "HMS Mllampus," a 36 gun frigate. This book provides 5 models of graduated difficulty showing step-by-step construction through drawings and photographs.
This book tells the story of the only ten J-Class yachts ever built and their race for the America's Cup and other trophies in British and American waters. These beautiful racing yachts competed for a mere 8 seasons between and Many great photographs. Employing surpurb, clear draughtsmanship this book shows each and every detail of the rigging of typical period fore-and-aft vesels. There are over diagrams showing clearly where each separate item of standing and running rigging is fitted, led and belayed.
This book presents an overview of the design, development and classification of modern warship types. Offers an appreciation of the complex structures associated with warship designs and how the various sections and external fittings can be related to those on warship models.
Many pictures of warships and warship models. This book is a new step-by-step masterclass of one of the world's leading ship modellers and describes how to build a small scale model of the privateer "Prince de Neufchatel" as a waterline model or full size display model. There are over color photographs. This book contains a lifetime of modeling experience by Brian King. Brian's interests are in warships from large battleships to warships of the Victorian era. There are many photographs and drawings throughout the book.
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